After breakfast we walked around the Hradčany, or castle area for a few areas. To actual go into the buildings cost money and we decided to simply walk the grounds instead. The castle sits atop the highest point and is a hodgepodge of construction over the centuries. It was quite the hike to get to the top, but the payoff was worth the effort. There were beautiful gardens that wrap around the outer walls, administrative buildings, former residences and the St. Vitus Cathedral. We witnessed what appeared to be a kind of changing of the guards and the soaked up the views from the walls overlooking the city.
If we weren't certain of the beauty in this place, the numerous brides and grooms having their pictures taken provided reassurance.
We made the trek down back the Lesser Side area and walked around a bit more in hopes of finding a bite. It was a beautiful day, about 68 degrees and pure sunshine, so we decided to sit at an outside table for an Aperol Spritz before continuing on. We sat for about 20 minutes to check email and enjoy the sun before people dodging on the Charles Bridge to get back to the Old Town. Once across we headed up river to try and grab a picture, then settled in for some ghoulash at Slavia. Slavia is an old school coffee shop that serves some Czech staples and coffee and cakes. It was once a gathering place for writers (maybe it still is) and like most places we went to, had a solid mix of locals and tourists. The view from the large windows open up the to river on one side and the national theatre on the other. Not a bad place to sit.
Side Note: One thing that was tough to get used to in Prague was the smoking. Europeans are big smokers (or so it seems), but for the most part it isn't allowed inside restaurants. Prague was the first place we visited where that was different. It's amazing how much you notice it not having been exposed to people smoking inside since the mid 2000s.
Ashley had been messaging back and forth with the Brittany, who we met at Oktoberfest, throughout the day as they were also in Prague. Only operating on Wifi made it tough to communicate, but we eventually met up with them at the Hotel Prince near the Astronomical Clock. They had been told that there was as decent rooftop terrace to eat dinner so the four of us enjoyed some pasta and a drink while we watched the sunset over the city. As we asked for the bill a gigantic spider almost dropped down on my head (by the way, for those that know my fondness for spiders, I handled this very calmly) so we paid as quick as possible and headed for the elevator. We were thinking it was time to head home.
The elevators can be a bit confusing because the 1st floor is actually the first floor off the ground (or sometimes the second) and they all use something different for the ground floor. Jeremy pressed the button for the ground floor, or so we thought, and we all jumped off when the doors opened. We quickly realized we were in the basement of the building... aka the Black Angels Bar
One thing that is very apparent as you walk around Prague is the amount of history and change the city has witnessed. However, when able to see the bones of a building you realize that all of these modern business are operating in spaces that were built in the 13th or 14th centuries.
Black Angels Bar had the feel of a modern take on a speakeasy, and utilized the different nooks and crannies of the cellar for large and small tables or private booths. The well worn bar was adorned with angels carved right into the wood and 10-15 foot mirrior set at such an angel that allowed us to see the cocktails the bartender was creating. The cocktail list was large and the bar stock was impressive. That menu was focused around the classics, new spins on the classics and even some tiki options.
We grabbed four seats at the bar as, with most places we have been in Northern Europe, the tables were all reserved. Our seats gave us a front row seat to watch the bartender, whom I should really refer to as a mixologist, create his magic. Their truly was an artistry to what he was doing and he couldn't have been less pretentious about it. There was no attitude and he spoke with us the entire time he was making cocktails. While the menu was big, the prices were not. With a few exceptions, every cocktail was around $7 U.S. and we're of the quality or better than what would cost, at a minimum, $20 in NYC. We each had a few drinks while we watched the show. I enjoyed the bars spin on an Old Fashion (they use two gins) an a Sazerac that included a Absinthe Ice Ball. Ashley had a Breakfast at Tiffanys that had a nice sweet flavor with a creamy finish. Brittany tried the most decorative of the night, the Bramble, that was served in a beautifully painted tea cup and Jeremy worked with the mixologist (not a fan of the word, but have to give the artist his due) to create a spin on the Moscow Mule.
The final touch on this wonderful accident was the keyboard and saxophone/clarinet players who provided solid music throughout the night.
Taking pictures inside are strictly prohibited so here are a few we grabbed online:
After about an hour or so, we decided it was time to roll out. Brittany and Jeremy had to leave their hotel at 4am to catch a plan and we had to leave our AirBnB by 7:30 to catch our train to Berlin. We said our goodbyes and headed off into the night... keeping a watchful eye out for any spiders looking to drop down for a visit.
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